Review: Bar Italia

January 8th, 2010 § 0

Bar Italia is one of many Italian restaurants in Little Italy of Toronto. This is what I love about Toronto – how far do I have to travel for authentic Italian food? Not far at all.

I arrived at the restaurant early and before I knew it, I was waiting at the bar with the most aromatic coffee I have ever had, on the house. Although this restaurant was more modern than homely, Italian servers almost always end up treating you like kin no matter where you are. Service was impeccable.

When my friends arrived, it took us a long time to order, but the server’s interruptions were well-timed and warranted. It took a while for everything to come after we ordered, or maybe that was just my hungry stomach talking. The cold, awkwardly-sliced bread with olive oil and vinegar was barely enough to share at our table and not nearly appetizing enough for me.

We shared an antipasto plate to start, which I forgot to take a picture of. The cured meats were average, the marinated vegetables a little over-marinated, but the bocconcini was quite nice.

When the food finally came, I knew I had ordered exactly what would satisfy me on this cold winter night.
Rigatoni with sweet home-made Italian sausage, portobello mushrooms, rapini and oregano in a rose sauce.
The rigatoni was, of course, made in-house, and it quite firm and chewy, although slightly over-cooked. The rose sauce was perfect, not too strong and not too bland. The sweet sausages were heavenly, and the portobello mushrooms complemented every ingredient. I was unsure whether I would enjoy the rapini, but they turned out to be all right. There was a nutty flavour to it that contrasted with the sweetness of the rest of the dish, and only a hint of bitterness. The portion size was just right, and I enjoyed every bite.

One of my friends ordered the Roasted Chicken Breast, which was aromatic in an entirely different way from my dish.
Roasted breast of chicken with roasted vegetables and garlic potato mash in a green peppercorn jus.
The chicken breast turned out to be more of a chicken quarter plus breast. The skin was glistening, golden, and lightly crisp. As always, my complaint regarding the chicken was that it was too thick. While the meat under the skin and around the bones were tender and flavourful enough, the rest of the white meat was bland. The peppercorn jus was a very interesting complement. Roasted vegetables were well-done, and lightly flavoured. The mashed potatoes had clumps in them, which is how I like them, but no hint of garlic.

Our other friends ordered the Insalata di Bresaola and Capellini. No complaints there, although the Capellini seemed a little bland. It was basically a salad sittingon top of capellini, with barely any sauce. (No, olive oil is not a sauce.) Am I the only one surprised that this is even a dish?
Insalata di Bresaola with Belgian endive, radicchio, Boston lettuce in a lemon vinaigrette, served with avocado, thinly sliced air-dried beef tenderloin, parmigiano cheese shavings, and toasted walnuts.
Capellini with mixed vegetables, roasted garlic, oregano and tomatoes tossed in extra virgin olive oil.

For impeccable service, not kicking my friends out even though we lingered far beyond what would be considered polite, and my satisfying Rigatoni, I would definitely recommend this restaurant. Not sure how I feel about the Capellini, but there are certainly plenty of other great options on the menu.

Rating:

Review: Skyland de Shanghai

December 14th, 2009 § 0

Skyland de Shanghai (上海新天地) across from Pacific Mall is my new favourite Shanghainese restaurant. The food here reminds me of Zhejiang (浙江) Province, the food of my childhood. Heck, it was the food of my parents’ childhoods. I had driven by this place many times and even heard it recommended to me, but for some reason, I never tried it. Dinner last night left me wondering, “Why didn’t I come here sooner?”

The interior is modern and well-lit. The tables are quite close together but the semi-circle dividers give an illusion of spaciousness.

The menu was varied with bright, bold pictures of mouthwatering dishes. We started with a “dessert” as an appetizer, gui hua tang ou (steamed lotus root stuffed with sweet sticky rice).
Steamed Lotus Root Stuffed with Sweet Sticky Rice
This steamed dessert was soft and sticky with sugary juices, and the sweet glutinous rice complemented the slightly crispier lotus root. I have always wondered what dessert in Chinese culture really is, but now I know why I had such a hard time figuring it out. For most families, there is no distinction between courses, everything is set on the table pretty much at once. Sure, you have bigger dishes and smaller dishes, hot dishes and cold dishes, but the distinction is not as clear as in Western tradition. For example, here is a dessert that looks deceptively like an appetizer. Who would have thought of lotus root being a dessert? It comes down to a fundamental difference in technology: Chinese chefs don’t bake. Baking is very much a Western technology, and Canton baked desserts have been influenced that way. Traditional Chinese desserts are made much in the same way that all dishes are made, on the stove.

Next up was ban li shao ji (chicken with chestnuts stew).
Chicken with Chestnuts Stew
This was every good as bit as it looks. Braised chicken with chestnuts is a common family dish in the Shanghai area. It’s an exceedingly simple recipe – just soy bean paste and salt – but the chestnuts add something very subtle and unique to the sauce.

The highlight of the evening, however, was the Shanghai special hot pot.
Shanghai Special Hot Pot
In this pot contained an elaborate combination of: dan jiao (pork in egg wrapper dumplings), pork in tofu wrapper, Lion’s Head meatballs, fen si (vermicelli), fish balls, dried ham (salted and air-dried as opposed to smoked) and various Chinese vegetables. It was glorious.

Another unique dish was belly pork in a fermented beancurd sauce. Fermented beancurd (or dou fu ru) is not as strange as it might sound. It is not pungent at all, instead it is very flavourful.
Belly Pork in Fermented Beancurd Sauce
Belly pork is pork that has a lot of fat, and it is usually cut in big chunks with the skin still on it. Although this is probably not a dieter’s dream, the skin, fat, and meat goes really well together, especially in a dish like this that would need to be cooked for a long time until a lot of fat has melted into the sauce.

On the side, we also had a bowl of bok choy fried rice.
Bok Choy Fried Rice

For dessert, we had lan gua bing (fried pumpkin pancakes).
Pumkpin Pancakes
They are made with glutinous flour and covered in sesame seeds, fried until golden brown. These were melt-in-your-mouth good, the best I’ve ever had.

Service could have been more attentive but no worse than a typical Chinese restaurant of this size. The prices are very reasonable (although a little higher than some of the other restaurants in Scarborough). There are a lot of unique, home-grown Shanghai dishes on the menu that I have not seen elsewhere. I would definitely come back, and next time, I’m bringing more people so I can try more dishes.

Rating:

Autumn Brunch

November 4th, 2009 § 0

This past weekend, a good friend of mine hosted a brunch at her place and tried some new recipes on us. When we arrived, she had written her menu on a board!

Fall-themed brunch menu

The brunch consisted of muffins, breakfast squares, pancakes, bacon, and pastries, as well as orange juice (with or without champagne1).

Everything was made with loving care and of course, from scratch.

Cranberry breakfast squares
These breakfast squares had a layer of homemade cranberry jam, topped with baked brown sugar and egg whites. The top layer was especially good, the brown sugar definitely came through.

Pumpkin, raisin, walnut muffins
The muffins were made from a pumpkin base, so they were a lot less sweet than the cranberry-brown sugar breakfast squares.

Homemade pancakes with blackberry compote (or maple syrup) and strips of bacon came out piping hot. The pancakes were light but held their form well.
A survey of the aftermath
To note in this picture:

  • Someone will always stop at Tim Hortons before breakfast, because we. are. Canadian.
  • Someone will always pull their Blackberry out and put it on the table, because we. are. business students.
  • Homemade whipped cream. Also, I forgot to take a picture of the quince pastries but they were probably the most delicious of all (and probably took the most time to make because, let’s face it, homemade pastries are a bitch.)
  • I was apparently the only one who deemed it appropriate to drink champagne at 10 in the morning, but with good food and good company, I had a lot to celebrate.

All in all, a huge success! I think my foodie circle is widening. Woohoo!

  1. Although for me, it was more like “champagne, with or without orange juice. []