Oliver & Bonacini cafe & grill is a part of a prestigious group of restaurants opened by the same company, including Canoe (rated 4 stars by Toronto Life and the epitome of fine dining in Toronto) and Auberge du Pommier (3 stars, also in Toronto). Located in Bayview Village, its uptown location sets it quite far apart in location and clientèle from its sister restaurants.
Our party of 7 arrived at 7pm without a reservation, but were seated within about 40 minutes. The restaurant was busy but the waiters were nonetheless attentive and quick to take our orders. We ordered off the Summerlicious menu, which was pleasantly varied and a great deal ($25 + tax and tip) for a three-course meal.
I had the Sun Ripened Watermelon & Tomato Gazpacho to start, the Preserved Lemon & Chili Chicken entree, and Warm Strawberry & Rhubarb Buckle to finish. The appetizer was a disappointing start to the meal, as it was too sour for my tastes. The sourness overwhelmed all other flavours so that the watermelon did not come through at all.
I had a taste of my friend’s Potted Tiger Shrimp Pate, which was much better than my sour bowl of questionable yellow contents. Perhaps I just ordered the wrong thing.
The entree was two pieces of chicken breast (skin on), generously rubbed with seasoning, sitting atop two slices of tomato. The seasoning for the chicken was great, but unfortunately, like all chicken breasts I seem to try, they were thick and dry and bland past skin surface. The yogurt sauce was also extremely strange and did not compliment the spelt salad at all.
Is this what all chicken entrees are doomed to be? Why are restaurants so adamant to do a chicken breast entree when they can just as easily use boneless, skinless chicken thighs that are so much more tender and flavourful? And why do they refuse to marinate the white meat? Why must the seasoning be restricted to a superficial layer on the outside? I simply cannot understand.
My friends ordered the lamb brochette, which I did not try because I’m not a fan of lamb but I was told it was all done “medium” when they’d asked for rare.
Then there was dessert. Ah, dessert. Always my favourite course. It was at this point that the restaurant finally managed to get back on my good side, with an amazing, crumbly strawberry and rhubarb buckle. I haven’t made up my mind as to whether or not I like rhubarb, and there wasn’t a lot of it in the dessert. It was topped with a heavenly toasted almond ice cream.
The best part of the dessert was not the ice cream nor the rhubarb (or lack thereof), but the amazing texture of the slice. It was crunchy on the outside and moist and soft on the inside. It wasn’t incredibly rich, and it wasn’t soggy either. I didn’t think it was possible for this restaurant to redeem itself after I left my appetizer untouched and my entree only half-eaten, but the dessert really was quite perfect.
I had a taste of my friend’s eton mess, which really did look messy, but in a colourful, unpretentious kind of way. The taste was sweet and fruity, but nowhere as good as my buckle.
The environment was a lively, classy one, which is surprising considering the restaurant is located in an unassuming plaza. I also cannot forget to mention that the service was excellent, especially considering our waiter took time to explain proper etiquette in getting a waiter’s attention (we asked) and listened while we explained the story behind the tapping of the table by Asian customers (he asked).
All in all, the meal did not live up to the name of the Oliver & Bonacini restaurant chain, but the dessert did.
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